Firstly here are parts and tools you will need. I have included the OEM part numbers, and different brand versions of them.
PARTS
Oil - VW 504 00 (5w-30/5w-40) Halfords oil is cheapest. You need 4 or 5 litres.
Oil filter - OEM 04E115561H, i.e. MAHLE OC 977/1, VW AG, MANN-FILTER W 712/95
Spark plugs - OEM 04C905606A, BOSCH Y7LER02, NGK 96596
Air filter - OEM 04C129620C, Bosch S0285
Sump plug - OEM N90288901 - Sump plugs were a battle for me to find, its M15 x 1.5 L=18.0mm. The GuidePro 333440211 Sump Plug is correct and what I used, even though it doesn't say Skoda Citigo on the pack.
Sump plug washer - OEM N0138157,
Pollen filter - OEM 1S0819669, Bosch R5573, Mahle LAK 811
To find parts use these websites.
For OEM codes (in case you don't believe me): Skoda Parts Direct Online Shop | Genuine Skoda Parts
To find the brand specific codes: Parts & accessories for SKODA Citigo 1.0 75hp / 55kW 2011 - 2023 » parts catalogue
TOOLS
Ratchet wrench
19mm socket (for removing the sump plug)
10mm socket for removing bolts on spark plug
Spark plug socket deep 16mm
Oil filter wrench
Torque wrench
T20 Screwdriver
USEFUL EXTRA INFO
Spark Plug gap is 1.00mm (0.040"). Service interval is 40k miles, no time limit specified.
Spark plug torque is 25Nm. Best to apply some grease to the thread prior to fitting.
ALSO READ THIS: HOWTO: Service the UP! (basic guide) | Up Owners Club
The UP! and Skoda Citigo (and SEAT Mii) are exactly the same.
First the oil change.
STEP 1:
Raise the front of your car.
Either jack it up on both sides and use jack stands. Or if you're like me and you don't have jack stands, drive your car up a ramp of two planks of wood onto some cement blocks.
STEP 2: Use a 19mm socket to remove sump plug from the pan. (Anticlockwise to loosen)
I am using a hollow rolling pin for extra leverage since the previous person was clearly super strong.
STEP 3:
Hurrah!
STEP 4:
Try and unscrew the oil filter by hand. It should be possible to undo by hand but life is never as it should be and whoever last serviced your car might have been evil, so buy an oil filter wrench.
Typically I bought an oil filter wrench and mine came off easily by hand.
Lots of oil will drain so make sure to catch it.
STEP 5:
Wait about 10 minutes for all the oil to drain.
INTERLUDE:
If you are like me, and have decided not to replace the entire sump plug, but just the washer, now is the time to realise you can't get the washer off your sump plug because it was overtightened, and to cycle for an hour to eurocarparts to get an entirely new sump plug. (In theory you only have to replace the washer, as it is a crush washer so it moulds to shape to create a perfect seal.)
I suppose this is an idiot's guide... because I am an idiot.
Looks good.
Do not believe these lies. It fits the Skoda Citigo too.
Here is proof.
STEP 6?
Wipe clean the dripping oil around the oil filter and sump plug holes.
STEP 7:
Dip your finger in some oil and smear it around the gasket of the new filter.
STEP 8:
Screw the new filter on. Do it as tight as you can with one hand.
Caution: Make sure not to double gasket it. This is when the gasket of the old oil filter gets stuck on the car and then you screw the new one on and there are two gaskets and havoc ensues. Avoid this by checking that your old oil filter definitely still has its gasket. I would feel it because the black oil can look a bit like a gasket.
STEP 9:
Screw the new sump plug and washer back in.
STEP 10:
Add the fresh 5w-30 or 5w-40.
Here I am using the daintiest of jugs
.
Add 2.5l or 3l at first. Then add in quarter litre increments checking the dipstick every time.
Once it is nearly full, run your engine for 3 minutes or so to get the oil back in the oil filter and nooks and crannies. The oil level will go down so turn off your engine and go back and add some more.
In total I added 3.6 litres.
Caution: If your car is sloping because you have raised it at the front, the oil level will read low. So don't fill to the maximum mark on your dipstick until your car is on the level.
Next replace the air filter.
STEP 1.
Locate the air filter. It's the big black box that says MPI on it.
STEP 2:
Pull out the air hose and take the entire box off the car.
I couldn't get the hose off so I just unhooked it (its hooked in on the left side, a bit of wiggling and you'll get it loose) and pulled it out as far as I could get it so I could reach the screws at the back. I'll need to get the hose off eventually when I replace the spark plugs but that's a problem for another day.
STEP 3:
Using a T20 screwdriver unscrew the 11 screws on the box.
STEP 4:
Take the top off and this is what you'll see inside.
STEP 5:
STEP 6:
Replace the air filter.
STEP 7:
Screw the top back.
Make sure you don't accidentally drop any screws into the alternator.
Oh shit...
STEP 8:
Once you've spent far too long sticking a magnet to a pair of tweezers and fishing out your screw, make sure the air filter is securely back in place and you're done.
I will write about the spark plugs when I have 1. Managed to get my air filter off completely. And 2. Found somebody to lend me a torque wrench.
